Kambodscha

Es regnet, als wir nach einer mehrstuendigen Bootsfahrt ueber den Mekong Fluss in Kambodscha an Land gehen. Durch fehlende Indikatoren, wie Gebaeude, Strassen oder wechselnde Landschaften, habe ich nicht wirklich das Gefuehl eine Landesgrenze ueberschritten zu haben. Ausserdem bin ich nicht dazu gekommen mich ueber Land und Leute zu informieren, fahre also voellig unbedarft meinem ersten Ziel Phnom Penh, der Hauptstadt Kambodschas entgegen…Phonm Penh
… ist endlich so, wie ich mir eine asiatische Grossstadt immer vorgestellt hatte. Man taucht ein in ein Meer aus ratternden Motarraedern und Autos. Die Strassen sind voll, es ist laut und es herrscht reges Treiben. Leicht orange schimmernd, daempft die von Staub und Abgasen durchsetzte Luft das Licht der Abendsonne und Strassenlaternen.
Auf der Suche nach einer Unterkunft, schliesse ich mich ein paar Daenen an und vetraue auf deren Wahl des Guesthouses. Dort angekommen laufe ich einen langen Korridor entlang, bis mich ploetzlich ein Deja Vue von noch nie dagewesener Intensitaet durchfaehrt. Erinnerungen an einen Traum werden wach, einem Traum, der mich Jahre zuvor schon einemal hier her durch eben genau diesen Korridor gefuehrt hat. Eines von mehreren Ereignissen im Laufe der Reise, die meine bis dahin sehr realistische Weltanschauung nicht geaendert , wohl aber aufgeweicht und um weitere, nicht unbedingt erklaerbare Aspekte bereichert hat. Insgesamt wirkt alles etwas unwirklich. Gezahlt wird mit US Dollar, es herrscht Partystimmung, ueberall riecht es nach Haschisch, wer einen Blick in die Menuekarte der Restaurants und Bars wirft und sich fragt, was “HAPPY-Shake” oder “HAPPY-Pizza” zu bedeuten hat, wird bald herausfinden, das mit “HAPPY” eine besondere Zutat, naemlich psilocybinhaltige Pilze gemeint sind.
Zwar goenne ich mir, mich wieder mal in netter Gesellschaft befindend auch etwas Spass, doch ist der eigentlliche Grund meines Aufenthalts ein sehr ernster. Gleich frueh am naechsten Morgen schwinge ich mich aufs Rad, stuerze mich dann halsbrecherisch in den chaotischen Verkehr auf Phnom Penhs Strassen um zu den Killing Fields (Info), etwa 17 km suedlich ausserhalb der Stadt zu gelangen. Diese und der spaetere Busuch des Tuol-Sleng-Museums (Info) sind nicht “nur” Synonyme beispielloster, menschenverachtender Brutalitaet, sondern zeigen auch auf, dass derartige Graeueltaten keine Relikte laengst vergangener Zeiten sind, sondern wie auch andere Konflikte und Kriege im suedostasiatischen Raum, noch gar nicht lange zurueck liegen oder gar bis in die heutige Zeit hineinreichen.

Siem Reap
Siem Reap ist fuer mich nicht nur Ausgangspunkt fuer den Besuch der Tempel von Angkor (Info), sondern gleichzeitig auch das letzte Ziel meiner Suedostasienrunde.
Trotz des riesigen Areals von ca. 200 km², auf dem sich einst das Koenigreich der Khmer erstreckte und der schweisstreibenden Hitze, ziehe ich zum Erkunden der Tempelanlagen das Rad dem motorisierten Tuk-Tuk vor. Es ist nicht nur guesntiger, sondern mit der Option stehen bleiben zu koennen, wann man moechte, einfach mal irgendwo abzubiegen, um zu schauen wohin der Weg fuehrt und Situationen, in die man sonst nicht geraten wuerde, machen aus einer sonst langweiligen, touristischen Unternehmung jedes mal wieder ein kleines Abenteuer :-) So halte ich z. B. bei ein paar Leuten, die nach mir pfeifen, weil sie noch jemanden zum Federfussball spielen brauchen und spiele etwas mit ihnen, schaue in verdutzte Gesichter, weil ich auf Umwegen mit meinem klapprigen Damenrad durch kleine Doerfchen fahre, wohin sich normalerweise kein Tourist verirrt und kenne mich, da ich selbst fahre bereits nach kurzer Zeit in der Umgebung bestens aus :-)
Zwei Tage nehme ich mir Zeit, um Angkor zu durchstreifen. Durch die Weitlaeufigkeit der Anlage verteilen sich die Toursistenstroeme bis in den beruemtesten Tempeln sehr gut. Alles ist sehr freizuegig gestaltet, so hindern einen keine Verbotsschilder und Warnhinweise daran, auf den zum Teil ueber 1000 Jahre alten Zeugnissen aus Stein herumzulaufen oder zu klettern :-) Fast ebenso interessant, wie die von Menschenhand errichteten Bauten, ist die Natur, die sich zurueckerobert, was ihr genommen wurde, sobald der Mensch nicht mehr eingreift. Riesige Wuergefeigen umschlingen nicht nur ihre Wirtspflanzen, sondern nehmen auch die Tempelanlagen in ihren eisernen Griff.

Tja, und so bleiben mir am Ende noch vier Tage, um von Kamboscha zurueck nach Bangkok (Thailand) zu gelangen, von wo aus mein Flug weiter nach Indien geht.
Es ist interessant, Bangkok ein zweites mal sehen zu koennen. Beim ersten Besuch, nicht so voll und laut wie erwartet, dennoch chaotisch, wirkt es jetzt im Verleich zu manch anderen Staedten in Suedostasien, geradezu ordentlich, fortschrittlich und geregelt.
Geniessen kann ich die letzten Tage leider nicht, da mir erst in Bangkok angekommen einfaellt, dass ich ja noch ein Visum fuer Indien brauchen koennte. Doch einige Behoerdengaenge spaeter und mit mehr Glueck als Verstand, halte ich mein Visum tatsaechlich bereits nach knapp zwei Tagen in der Hand, obwohl es normalerweise eine Woche in Anspruch nimmt. Der letzten Etappe steht also nichts mehr im Weg.

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