Good morning Vietnam

Zwei Tage bin ich unterwegs, um von Laos ueber einen einsamen Grenzuebergang in den Bergen, bis nach Dien Bien Phu, dem naechst moeglichten Verbindungspunkt nach Hanoi zu gelangen. Nicht nur das Land, sondern auch die Umgebung wechselt allmaelig. Schon in den Bergen weichen einfache Bambushuetten, Haeusern aus Stein, die Strassen werden groesser und besser, die Bauern tragen diese charakteristischen kegelfoermigen Reishuete. Durch Unwissenheit glaenzend und somit nicht um die historische Bedeutung  der Stadt (Schlacht um Dien Bien Phu) wissend, schenke ich dem grossen Mahnmal auf einem Huegel keine weitere Beachtung, besorge mir gleich ein Busticket nach Hanoi und begebe mich auf die Suche nach einer Bank. Leichter gesagt als getan, denn zum ersten mal komme ich hier mit meinen Sprachkenntnissen nicht weiter…

Endlich Millionaer :-)
Ein Fingerzeig auf das vietnamnesische Wort fuer Bank im Kapitel “Useful words” fuer Vietnam in meinem Reisefuehrer, das alle hundert Meter wiederholt und kurze Zeit spaeter halte ich 2,5 Millionen Dong in den Haenden. Keine zwei Stunden nach Ankunft sitze ich im Bus nach Hanoi. Zunaechst bin ich etwas enttaeuscht zwar in einem bequemen und klimatisiertem aber eben von der Aussenwelt voellig abgeschnittenen Reisebus zu sitzen, den Fahrtwind nicht zu spueren, Geraeusche und Gerueche nicht aufnehmen zu koennen, doch bei einem der unzaehligen Stops, um weitere Fahrgaeste in den bereits voellig ueberfuellten Bus aufzunehmen, bekomme ich eine Gratiseinfuehrung in die Vietnamnesische Essenskultur :-)
Gegessen wird gemeinsam. Ich bin der einzige Auslaender, so sitze ich mit ein paar Vietnamesen aus dem Bus an einem Tisch und blicke zunaechst etwas ratlos auf die dargebotenenn Speisen. Ein Transfestit zeigt mir kurz die Ablaeufe und natuerlich entwischt mir zur Belustigung aller die erste Fruehlingsrolle aus den Staebchen und faellt promt in die Schuessel mit der Sojasauce :-) Etwas gewoehnungsbeduerftig, Abfall wie Knochen, Servietten, usw., werden eifach auf den Boden geworfen und spaeter vom Personal rausgefegt. Es macht richtig Spass gemeinsam mit den anderen an einem Tisch zu sitzten, sich die Schuesseln zu reichen und das Essen zu teilen.

Hanoi (Halong-Bucht)

Hier geht alles ganz schnell. Da sich die Gelegenheit bietet, buche ich gerade erst angekommen noch fuer den gleichen Morgen eine Zweitagestour in die mit seinen tausenden, zum Teil steil aus dem Wasser ragenden Felsen und Inseln, beruehmt beruechtigte Halong Bucht.  Zwei Tage und eine Nacht. Die Bucht im Morgengrauen betrachten und vom Boot ins Wasser springen. Mehr wollte ich nicht. Essen egal, Kabine egal. Leider musste ich die Erfahrung machen, dass das schon zu viel verlangt sein kann. Dabei hatte alles so gut angefangen. Auf dem Weg dort hin, treffe ich im Minibus auf sehr nette Leute, die Sonne scheint, der Guide ist lustig und scheint kompetent. Bis ich am Hafen enttaeuschendererweise von der Gruppe getrennt werde. So kam es, wie es kommen musste und nach dem Besuch einer bunt ausgelaeuchteten Hoehle, die ueber blechernd klingende Lautsprecher fortlaufend als Wunder der Natur angepriesen wird, deren Waende sich an manchen Stellen durch die vom Schweiss getraenkte Luft der Toursistenmassen schon schwarz faerben, stellt der Guide ploetzlich fest, dass es nicht genuegend Kabinen fuer alle zum Schlafen auf dem Boot gibt. Mir und auch ein paar anderen werden hierbei ein paar kleine Worte zum Verhaengnis. Auf der Quittung steht lediglich “2 Tage 1 Nacht Halong-Bucht”, nicht aber “2 Tage und eine Nacht Halong-Bucht auf dem Boot“. Alles Reklamieren hilft nichts. Nach einigen heftigen Wortgefechten muessen wir, nicht zuletzt auch aufgrund gesetzlicher Bestimmungen, vom Boot. Alles wofuer ich hier her gekommen bin, ist dahin. Auf der Insel “Cat Ba” geht es weiter. Erst bei einbrechender Dunkelheit findet sich fuer uns alle ein Zimmer. Einem Paearchen wird zu allem Ueberfluss der Geldbeutel und das Mobiltelefon gestohlen. Als sie die Polizei rufen und diese feststellt, das der Hotelbesitzter keine gueltige Lizenz besitzt Auslaender zu beherbergen, werden wir kurzerhand nachts um eins aus dem Hotel geschmissen. Nur durch die Bemuehungen eines hilfsbereiten Vietnamesen, kommen wir letztendlich bei einer Familie unter. Das der Guide frueh am naechsten Morgen einiges zu Hoeren bekam, koennt ihr euch vorstellen. Das war sie also, meine Halong-Bucht Tour. Eine Fahrt mehr diskutierend als geniessend durch die Bucht zur sicherlich schoenen Insel Cat Ba, von der ich allerdings nichts gesehen habe, Rauswurf aus einem Hotel und den gleichen Weg, wieder diskutierend zurueck.
Trotzdem konnte ich die Tour mit Humor nehmen, denn einerseits erwarte ich von derart touristischen Unternehmungen schon seit langem nicht mehr allzu viel und zum anderen bin ich auf der Insel wieder einmal auf das wichtigste gestossen. Sehr interessante und nette Menschen, mit denen ich dort einen lustigen Abend verbracht hatte und zurueck in Hanoi noch eine Kleinigkeit Essen war. Ausserdem bin ich, was eigentlich untypisch fuer mich ist, hartnaeckig geblieben, habe den Tour-Operator herzitiert und tatsaechlich einen Teil meiner Kosten zurueck erstattet bekommen.
Couchsurfen ist wieder angesagt. Chris (Oesterreeicher) und seine Partnerin Tao (Franzoesin/Vietnamnesin), bewohnen unweit der Altstadt zwei wunderschoene, uebereinander liegende Wohnungen. Bei ihnen finde ich Ruhe, starte ausgedehnte Spaziergaenge durch Hanois Parks, die bereits ab fuenf Uhr in der Frueh von sportbegeisteten Vietnamnesen bevoelkert werden und verlaufe mich in der Altstadt, deren verwinkelte Gassen teilweise noch heute jeweils einem bestimmten Produkt zugeordnet sind. Hier laessen sich Schmiede, Steinmetze und Schneider bei deren Handwerk beobachten, auf Geraetschaften,  wie es sie bei uns nur noch in Atiquitaetenlaeden und Museen zu finden gibt. Auch wer wissen moechte, wo die Kapazitaetsgrenze bei der Beladung von Motorraedern liegt ist hier goldrichtig, denn diese hoert bei vier Schweinehaelften, Kuehlschraenken oder ganzen Familien noch lange nicht auf :-)
Durch Chris bekomme ich erstmals Einblick in eine spirtuelle Lebensweise. Anfangs etwas befremdlich, birgt diese Erfahrung jedoch etwas sehr wertvolles, da sie den eigenen Horizont um eine weitere Perspektive erweitert und erlaubt die Dinge um einen herum und sich selbst aus einem neuen, zuvor unbekannten Blickwinkel zu betrachten. Waehrend einer drum session bringt mir Chris, zumindest versucht er es :-) , die Grundzuege des Trommelns bei,  zeigt mir auf seinem Motorrad im Schnelldurchlauf die meissten Sehenswuerdigkeiten der Stadt und laesst mich waehrend eines Ausflugs in die Felder unweit der Stadt sogar ein paar Runden auf seinem Motorrad drehen :-) Mir gefaellt es hier, Hanoi ist grossartig. Der “Fortschritt”, auch wenn es schon erste Anzeichen dafuer gibt, hat die Stadt ihrer Authntizitaet noch nicht beraubt, also verlaengere ich trotz wenig Zeit um einen Tag, bevor es weiter Richtung Sueden geht. Primaeres Ziel ist das westlich von Ho-Chi-Minh-Stadt (Saigon) am Mekong-Delta gelegene Chau Doc, von wo aus es nach einem kurzen Stop in Hoi An und und Ho-Chi-Minh-Stadt nach Kambodscha gehen soll.

Hoi An
Die meissten Urlauber kommen nach Hoi An wegen der 1999 von der Unesco zum Weltkulturerbe ernannten Altstadt und lassen sich in einer der unzaehligen Schneidereien Kleider, Anzuege, Hemden und vieles mehr zu Spottpreisen bei guter Qualitaet, auf den Leib schneidern. Ich leihe mir nach dem Besichtigen der Altstadt fuer umgerechnet 80 Cent ein klappriges Damenrad und eiere auf einem holprigen Feldweg durch ausgedehnte Reisefelder dem Sonnenuntergang entgegen zum Strand. Die wohl letzte Moeglichkeit im Meer baden zu gehen, nutze ich nicht. Vielmehr geniesse ich es im Sand zu sitzen und das Treiben dort zu beobachten.  Obwohl knapp bei Kasse, lasse ich mich von einer netten Schneiderin doch noch dazu hinreisen, zumindest ein Hemd schneidern zu lassen :-) In einem Land, in dem es nichts gibt, dass nicht kopiert wird, laeuft das in etwa so ab, dass man sich aus einem Katolog eines Modedesigners etwas aussucht, sich vermessen laesst und in meinem Fall, knappe drei Stunden spaeter ein massgeschneidertes Hemd traegt, welches umgerechnet nur acht Euro gekostet hat :-) Nach gerade mal einem Tag und einer Nacht, heisst es auch schon wieder aufzubrechen.

Ho-Chi-Minh-Stadt (HCMC / Saigon)
Bereits die Einfahrt nach HCMC verheisst nichts Gutes. Weder die Vororte noch die Innenstadt selber wirken auf den ersten Blick sonderlich einladend.  Bei der Ankunft halte ich mir zunaechst die Myriaden von Schleppern vom Leib, schliesse mich dann kurzfristig doch einem an. Ich bin muede, seit gut 20 Stunden unterwegs, weiss weder wo ich mich genau befinde, noch in welcher Richtung es zu meinem Hostel geht. Gute Entscheidung, denn ohne eine Gegenleistung zu verlangen, fuehrt er mich durch ein verwinkeltes Gassengeflecht, welches sich wie ein Labyrinth, verborgen hinter grossen Fassaden erstreckt und in dem ich mich etwas spaeter waehrend eines naechtlichen Spaziergangs auch promt verlaufe, zu meinem Hostel. Es ist interessant und beaengstigend zugleich. Interessant ist es, in die wegen der Hitze meisst offenen Tueren der Wohnungen zu schauen, beaengstigend, wenn einem im Halbdunkel ein paar betrunkene Maenner entgegen laufen und du nicht weisst, welcher Gesinnung sie sind. Es dauert, bis ich aus den Gassen herausfinde, wieder auf belebtere Strassen und schliesslich totmuede  in meinem Hostel lande.
Neun Tage bleiben mir noch durch Kambodscha zu reisen und von dort aus zurueck nach Bangkok zu kommen, um meinen Flug nach Indien zu erwischen. Deshalb lasse ich schweren Herzens einen Besuch der Tunnel von Cu Chi bleiben und verlasse HCMC, eine dem ersten Eindruck entgegen doch sehr interessante Stadt, nach nur einer Nacht und einem halben Tag.
Chau Doc, gelegen im Mekong-Delta, dient mir nur als Nachtlager und so wie ich mich in Laos fuer den Bus entschieden habe, nutze ich jetzt die Gelegenheit, um ueber den Mekong-Fluss die Grenze nach Kambodscha zu passieren…

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160 Antworten zu “Good morning Vietnam”

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